Le Smoking

‘Le Smoking’ focuses on disposability within the fashion industry and questions our perception of luxury and functionality. Drawing inspiration from the iconic Yves Saint Laurent ‘Le Smoking’ suit, the jacket mimics the original but reduces it to its primal function of a protective garment for smoking. 

Initially, I drew similarities between the over-saturation of product in the fashion industry, to the mass of infomercial products that all serve a very singular purpose. I also researched traditional protective garments, such as the smoking jacket, as well as disposable protective wear such as gloves and hospital gowns. 

This lead me to design a protective garment by removing and limiting functionality to those only required for smoking, with details such as cigarette jet pockets on the waist, ashtray welt pockets on the sleeve head, and a gloved sleeve. The garment is designed to be worn backwards, mimicking protective garments such as hospital gowns and smocks, which are fastened at the back. 

While the functions of the jacket have been altered from the original, the fabrication and construction of the YSL ‘Le Smoking’ has been replicated, to highlight the contrast between the luxury of couture and the throwaway culture of fast fashion. Signifiers of the original have been honoured, such as the virgin wool faille fabrication, the satin shawl collar and pocket detailing, and the single fabric button closure. By contrasting the disposable protective garment with the intricate and specialist techniques of tailoring, the jacket questions the value we place on luxury and the disposable fashion mindset. 

Photography by Portia Sarris

Model - Shae Camisa